Cajamarca to Chachapoyas Guide: Peru’s Great Cloud Forest Detour

Cajamarca and Chachapoyas sit inland from the well-trodden backpackers’ route from Trujillo to Mancora and into Ecuador. Those who leave this path and venture up into the Andes are rewarded with two of Peru’s most underrated cities. 

I constantly had the sense that if these two towns were closer to backpacker hotspots like Cusco, they would be inundated with visitors and have wide recognition. Instead, you walk around and only see Peruvian tourists in the know, a sure sign of that great travel cliché, a hidden gem.

Why you should visit Cajamarca and Chachapoyas

If you are visiting Peru, you are probably doing so for a combination of its awe-inspiring history, vibrant ecology and jaw-dropping landscapes. All of these are present in Cajamarca and Chachapoyas. 

Modern Peru was effectively born in Cajamarca when Francisco Pizarro’s troops ambushed the last Inca Emperor Atahualpa and promised to ransom him for the price of a room filled with gold. The Incas stripped their empire of treasure to free their ruler.

The Spanish executed him and captured his top generals, then marched on the leaderless empire to conquer it and forever change its destiny. The ransom room still survives in Cajamarca, and the echoes of that event resound through the mountain town. 

Chachapoyas lies on the edge of the Andes and the Amazon, receiving cultural influences from each and containing incredible landscapes where the mountains slide into the rainforest – jungled slopes, waterfalls and plunging canyons.

The region hums with life, being a cloud forest. Rare birds like the iconic cock of the rock and the Andean Spectacled Bear live in the area. It is also home to the fascinating Chachapoyan civilisation, who built cities in the clouds much like the better-known Incas.

Cajamarca

Getting to Cajamarca 

• From Lima – 14 hours 30 minutes 
• From Mancora – 13 hours
• From Trujillo – 7 hours
• From Chiclayo – 6 hours 30 minutes 
• From Chachapoyas – 15 hours 

It is possible to get a bus between Chachapoyas and Cajamarca, but only night buses are available on this route. Conversely, it is possible to get a day bus from Cajamarca to Chachapoyas. A day bus is preferable, as the road is fairly treacherous and it is safer to drive during the day.

There are also occasional reports of drunk drivers on the routes, a risk that can be mitigated by travelling during the day. Moreover, it is one of South America’s most beautiful roads. I was so glued to the window that I barely noticed the time pass. 

What is there to see in Cajamarca? 

Cajamarca is a city defined by its past – famous for the capture of Atahualpa and of being home to the ancient Cajamarca civilisation, whose ruins dot the landscape. It is also a world away from cosmopolitan cities like Lima. It holds to the old ways – much Quechua is spoken and traditional dress abounds.

Cajamarca is also famous for having perhaps South America’s best cheese, and there are ice-cream parlours everywhere. Within Peru, it is also known for the beauty of its women, which, from my own observations, holds true! I would suggest at least 3 days here. 

Viewpoint of Santa Apolonia in Cajamarca (ibrester/DepositPhotos)

Cuarto del Rescate 

The Cuarto del Rescate is the room where Atahualpa’s ransom of gold and silver was paid, the red line where the treasure went up to even survives. It is a monument to the conquest that modern Peru is born out of and is a key part in a story that is crazier than any action movie. Pretty much all the original Inca city was destroyed and this is one of the only ruins that survived. 

I was honestly expecting to be disappointed – it is surely asking too much of a ruin to give an insight into continent-sized events, but it was completely worth the visit.

The greenhouse-like structure above casts a pallid light on the walls and the craggy floor beneath, as if they are preserved within a different age. The line of treasure is drawn on stones the colour of a sunset. It feels like it marks the before and after of indigenous Peru. Well worth the 8 soles (or ~ $2) for entry.  

Plaza de Armas 

The plaza is one of my favourites in Peru. It feels like a self-contained park amid the hustle and bustle of the city. Mature trees stand against lawns and well-ordered flower beds. Each building facing the square is old and beautiful. Children play and relaxed Cajamarquinos read their newspapers. 

Plazas de Armas were the heart of colonial town planning, designed as gathering points in case of attack (Matches/DepositPhotos)

It is hard to imagine that this was the scene of the infamous massacre at Cajamarca, where the desperation of the trapped Incas was such that they broke down a stone wall by sheer mass of bodies. Now extremely quaint, it is a brilliant spot for people watching and reflecting on the blood once spilt here. 

Banos del Inca 

This is actually a separate town from Cajamarca but is accessible on the P13 collectivo that leaves from Municipal Stadium Cajamarca. The journey takes twenty minutes. The biggest attraction here are the baths that give the town its name. 

The baths are natural hot springs, heated by magma welling up from the earth, and the waters are infused with minerals. Today’s bath goers were not the first on the scene – archaeology shows thousands of years of occupation, and many Inca ruins survive here – it was a favourite holiday home. In fact, the last emperor Atahualpa was bathing there before the ambush in Cajamarca. His personal bath still survives today. 

Steaming thermal pools at the Baños del Inca (jose ahane/iStock)

So, these waters are laden with history as well as healing minerals. It is possible to hire a private bath for as little as 10 soles (or ~ $3) for half an hour where you can tailor the temperature exactly.

I felt like a new person emerging from the waters, cleansed of the dirt and stresses of travelling. There is also a museum on site housing Inca artefacts found nearby and those of the earlier Cajamarca civilisation.

Museo de Arqueológico y Etnográfico 

This museum stands out straight away for a carving of a four-breasted woman on the outside, supposedly representing an affliction known to affect surrounding towns!

The feeling of wonder does not dissipate as you step into the museum, holding exhibits of pottery from the Cajamarca civilisation that inhabited this region as long as 2000 years ago, as well as Inca artefacts too. 

The showpiece are the mummified remains of a baby in a ceramic vase, not something you see every day. Entry to this museum is bundled with the ticket for the Cuarto del Rescate, and it is located two minutes away. Also included in the ticket is the Church of Belen, with notable Baroque architecture. The square outside of it is particularly peaceful. 

Cerro Apolonia 

This is the main feature of the city’s skyline; a fairytale church perched on a steep hill right next to the old town. It is a ten-minute walk up to the summit, but you are rewarded with astounding views over the city. You see directly down onto the Plaza de Armas and across to the mountains that ring the city like a natural amphitheatre.

Cajamarca unfolds below the stone steps of Cerro Santa Apolonia

Like so much in Cajamarca, the ancient past never feels far away, as the Incas loved this view too. A carved throne still stands where the Inca once held meetings. There are also landscaped gardens and to potter about. Definitely worth the 3 soles (or ~ $1) entry.  

Kuntur Wasi 

This ruin is still barely understood and feels cloaked in an air of mystery. Archaeologists believe that it was built in 1100 BC, and they are not sure exactly who by. What is for certain, is that they were a sophisticated culture capable of creating such a huge structure – it is a massive raised platform with terraces and other buildings dotted about the hillside. 

Still surviving statues are carved with the disorientating patterns of the Chavin culture from far to the South. The views over the remote valley of San Pablo are also staggering, as is the onsite museum. The oldest forged gold in the Americas was found here and is displayed. 

Reaching the site independently is difficult – it is located four hours from Cajamarca without any direct public buses. A full day tour with meals and transport makes it a lot easier and will not cost much more than stressing about taking colectivos and mototaxis in remote villages.  

Cumbremayo 

This is a brilliant escape into the countryside found just twenty minutes in the car from town. There is something of Cappadocia in Turkey in the amazing spires of stone that protrude from the earth. It is known as a “rock forest”.

The walking routes through the rock forest pass undeciphered petroglyphs from thousands of years ago. Intriguingly too, there is a 9km long ancient aqueduct gurgling through the valleys. It has carved zigzags to slow the waterflow down in places and only drops two metres over its whole course, incredible precision from a people without metal tools. 

This is accessible by colectivo found on the intersection of Loreto and Contisuyo. It will cost 3 soles (or ~ $1) each way. There are also plentiful tours available from operators on the Plaza for 25-30 soles (or $7-$9) if you would prefer a guide and simpler transport. 

Check This Cumbemayo Tour on GetYourGuide

The majestic “Los Frailones” rock formations in the volcanic “Stone Forest” of Cumbemayo (Alessandro Pinto / iStock)

Ventanillas de Otuzco

Named for its resemblance to windows, this is a pre-Inca burial site hewn into a cliff face, potentially as much as 1200 years old. There are 337 little chambers cut into the volcanic stone of Llanguil Hill. Now looted of its gold and remnants, they stand empty as windows to a lost world. 

Owing to the ease of access and how little is known about it, I would recommend visiting independently. Outside of Chicharron Doña Margarita restaurant, you can jump into a colectivo travelling in the direction of Ventanillas Otuzco. It will drop you off directly outside the entrance. 

tour the site (& Tres Molinos farm)

A rugged stone cliffside in Cajamarca, Peru, home to the Ventanillas de Combaya (cicloco/iStock)

Cajamarca Carnival 

From Late February to March, the city is taken over by masked dancers in indigenous costumes. Neighbourhoods compete against each other by choreographing parades and crafting handmade costumes. It is an onrush of colour of humming energy as ancient traditions burst onto the city’s streets. 

Chachapoyas 

Getting to Chachapoyas 

• From Trujillo – 14 hours 
• From Chiclayo – 10 hours
• From Cajamarca – 15 hours 

To travel to Chachapoyas from Cajamarca, use Transportes Rojas – a reputable operator recommended to me by locals. They will stop for lunch and in various scenic locations. 

A view of Chachapoyas’ main square – colonial buildings and dense green quietly framing the city’s everyday rhythm

What is there to see in Chachapoyas? 

Kuelap 

This is the star attraction in Chachapoyas and is commonly known as the ‘Machu Picchu of the North’. It is certainly comparable to its moniker, also being a lost city ruined on a mountaintop. 

Though, the experience is completely different. The archaeologists made a big effort to restore Machu Picchu to its original form, while here, they cleared enough of the vegetation so that you can see the ruins but left much of it as they found it.

The result is walking around an orchid adorned forest growing through scattered stones and cracked walls. The air of mystery and loss is just so incredible. I could walk completely alone for sections, an impossibility in Cusco’s ruins. 

Kuelap Fortress, a 6th-century stronghold built by the Chachapoyas in the highlands

The architecture is also utterly different to the Inca ruins around Cusco. It was built by the Chachapoyan culture who lived here from the Sixth Century AD until they were conquered by the Incas just before the Spanish arrived. They received influences from the Andes and the jungles, creating a unique cultural blend. Their buildings are circular and decorated with sumptuous stonework. 

The views from the city over the undulating ridges of cloud forest titling down into the Amazon are also incredible. The Peruvian government leant into the natural majesty of the city by installing a cable car to reach the ruins – an adrenaline-inducing journey high above a canyon. A brilliant experience all round. 

Tours to the ruins are plentiful and cost about 100 soles (or ~ $30). I visited independently by taking a colectivo to the base of the cable car from Terminal a Mendoza for 10 soles (or ~ $3). The ticket for the cable car and entry cost 30 soles (or ~ $9). I would recommend hiring a guide at the gate as there are no information signs.   

visit Kuelap by cable car

Gocta Falls

This 771m tall torrent was only discovered by outsiders in 2005. The local indigenous people regarded them as sacred and kept their existence a secret. Looking at the veil of tumbling water, you can see why they should be thought of as divine. 

There are lots of different hiking options available according to available time and fitness. I began from the village of San Pablo and followed a path for 5km to take me to the bottom of the top tier of the falls. The plunge pool hundreds of meters below the top of the falls was a brilliant lunch spot. The route also presents a lovely view of the torrent spiralling from the jungled mountain side.

A steep path takes you to the very base and the chance to reach a village called Cocachimba where colectivos will return to Chachapoyas. The full trail is 17km all in all, or 10km if you turn back to San Pablo after reaching the top tier of falls. 

To reach San Pablo, first take a colectivo from Chachapoyas to Cocachimba from Terminal a Mendoza for 10 soles (or ~ $3) and then a mototaxi to San Pablo for 20 soles (or ~ $6) 

The second route goes directly from Cocachimba up to the base of the falls. This route is simpler to get to the trailhead of, so is more popular, but is more challenging than the San Pablo route. It is 21km in total and involves some steep uphills. 

A distant view of Gocta Falls from Cocachimba town

Whichever route you opt for, you will pass through highly biodiverse cloud forest. Many tour companies will bundle a bird watching tour with the hike to the waterfalls. This is a brilliant option with species like the iconic cock of the rock fluttering about. There is also a chance of spotting the elusive Andean Spectacled Bear – the real-life Paddington! Opting for a wildlife tour is the most compelling reason to take a tour, as reaching the falls is straightforward and the trails are clearly marked. 

Wear plenty of mosquito repellent on this hike, as those little vampires swarm in the forest. 

trek to the base of Gocta Waterfall

Karajia Sarcophaguses and the Quiocta cave 

The sarcophaguses are 8-foot tall, colourful sculptures on a cliff face built to house the remains of deceased ancestors near the heavens. They bear a resemblance to the Easter Island Moai but silently staring over a canyon. You will see little wooden models on sale everywhere in Chachapoyas.

Seeing them huddled on the edge of a cliff is such an otherworldly sight as to feel like a hallucination. The walk down to the canyon through bucolic potato fields and with mountain views is also a real joy. A friendly farmer even took me to see a Chachapoyan ruin in his fields! 

The ancient Karajia sarcophagi

Reaching the canyon independently is very difficult as colectivos are infrequent. I spent more than the cost of a tour on transport and wasted hours waiting for it. 

Another advantage of taking a tour is that they bundle it with a visit to the Quiocta cave. This is a stalactite laden cave which the Chachapoyan people used to buy their dead. Many original bones sit where they were found and vampire bats hang from the ceiling. Spooky. 

check out this dual adventure

Revash Masoleum and Leymebamba museum 

Like Karajia, Revash has a dash of the surreal about it. It looks like a tiny, colourful village on a plunging cliff face. As if out of the pages of a fantasy novel. It was, however, used to bury the Chachapoyan dead. These people really knew how to give a proper send off. 

The ancient cliff-dwellings and tombs of Revash

It is difficult to visit independently as it is in a remote area. It is best done with a tour in conjunction with the excellent Leymebamba Museum. The museum preserves 200 mummies found at Laguna de Los Condores. Some even have their eyes intact. I would not pass up the opportunity to make literal eye contact with someone who died 600 years ago.  

Yumbilla Falls

Gocta is by far the most famous waterfall in Chachapoyas, but it is not the tallest. That honour goes to Yumbilla Falls, which is also the eighth highest waterfall in the world at a staggering 895m tall. 

It is accessible by a glorious half-day hike through cloud forest. Bird species and jungle animals abound before you gaze up at the veil of falling water. You also pass directly below two other waterfalls. The route will take four hours of hiking and is not particularly difficult. 

Walking behind the veil of Yumbilla Falls, a hidden 896-meter-high gem in the Amazonas cloud forest

A word of warning is that the falls are seasonal, so are best visited between December and April during the wet season.  

To visit the falls independently, Get a colectivo to Pedro Ruiz from Terminal a Mendoza and then a mototaxi for the final eight kilometres to Cuispes. 

Yalape

If Kuelap has not satisfied your lost city fix, visit Yalape, its sister city. It covers an area of twelve acres, on a ridge within sight of modern Chachapoyas and Kuelap.

Its most striking feature is that it is very overgrown, silent stone walls are draped in vines and trees grow through structures. Not many visitors venture here, so you enjoy an ambience of being in an Indiana Jones movie when walking through the ruins. As if this was not enough, the area is hugely rich in bird life, especially hummingbirds. 

To reach Yalape independently, get a colectivo to the town of Levanto from Terminal a Mendoza. From there, either walk or get a moto taxi to the ruins. There is no entry fee. 

Try Amazonian food 

As a reminder of the Amazon’s closeness, the cuisine in Chachapoyas draws ingredients from the jungle like plantain, yuca and river fish. Particular delicacies include Patarashca and Inchicapi, river fish stuffed with chilis and peppers cooked in banana leaves and a chicken soup with jungle flavours like cassava, respectively. 

Amazonika Restaurant offers cooking classes, and I thought that the jungle food on offer at El Batan Del Tayta was special. 

Laguna de Los Condores Trek

This is one of Peru’s most important archaeological finds of recent times and it is a site that few have seen.

On the shores of this huge lake, 3km by 1km in size, mausoleums built by the Chachapoyans were discovered with 200 intact mummies within. These are now in the Museo de Leymebamba, but the mausoleums still stand. 

Guided treks are often on horseback, and the tours take three days. Bundled activities include bird watching in the cloud forest surrounding the lake and fishing.  

Gran Vilaya Trek 

If visiting ruins like Kuelap and Karajia by tours from Chachapoyas is not your thing, the Gran Vilaya hike is a brilliant alternative. Beginning at Karajia and concluding at Kuelap it is a tour de force of the remnants of the Chachapoyan and Inca cultures. The four days weave between scarcely visited ruins, Inca staircases and isolated villages.

It is a brilliant way to see some of the headline archaeological sites while intimately experiencing the cloud forest ecosystems and undiluted village life.