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There are some views that just stop you in your tracks, no matter how many times you’ve seen them. For me, one of those is the view of Durham Cathedral.
Whether you’re arriving by train and see it suddenly appear across the viaduct, or you’re wandering the city’s cobbled streets and catch a glimpse of its towers, its presence is immense.
It’s more than just a building; it’s the heart and soul of Durham, a giant of stone and faith that has dominated this peninsula on the River Wear for nearly a thousand years.
As part of the Durham UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the castle, the cathedral is the main reason most people visit the city, and it’s easy to see why.
It’s a place that feels heavy with history, where every stone has a story to tell. I’ve been lucky enough to explore it many times, and I always discover something new.
This is my guide to help you get the most out of your own visit to what is, without a doubt, one of the finest cathedrals in the world.
A Legendary Beginning
You can’t talk about the cathedral without telling the brilliant story of how it came to be here.
It all starts with St. Cuthbert, the most beloved saint in Northern England.
After his death in 687, his body was kept at Lindisfarne Priory. But when Viking raids became a constant threat, the monks fled in 875, carrying St. Cuthbert’s precious coffin with them.
For over a century they wandered, until in 995, the coffin suddenly became immovably heavy.
According to legend, the monks were lost until they overheard a milkmaid say she was looking for her lost dun (brown) cow, which she’d last seen at ‘Dun Holm’.
Taking this as a divine sign, they followed her to a wooded peninsula high above the River Wear. This was Dun Holm.
Here, they built a simple church to house the saint’s remains, and the city of Durham began to grow around it.
The mighty Norman cathedral we see today was started in 1093, after the Norman Conquest.
It was a statement of power, built to house the relics of St. Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede, and to serve as the seat of the powerful Prince-Bishops of Durham.
Stepping Inside: What Not to Miss
The moment you step through the huge wooden doors and into the Nave, the sheer scale of the place hits you. It’s a truly awe-inspiring sight.
The Nave and its Mighty Pillars: The first thing you’ll notice are the colossal pillars, some carved with incredible geometric patterns. Look up, and you’ll see the cathedral’s most groundbreaking feature: the world’s first structural pointed arch and a stone-ribbed vault. This was an architectural marvel that predated the Gothic style, allowing for a roof of immense scale and grandeur.
The Shrine of St. Cuthbert: Behind the High Altar lies the spiritual heart of the cathedral. For centuries, this was one of the most important pilgrimage sites in England, and it remains a place of quiet reflection today.
The Galilee Chapel: At the far western end of the cathedral is the beautiful Galilee Chapel. It has a lighter, more delicate feel than the main building and contains the tomb of the Venerable Bede, the great scholar and historian.
The Cloisters (aka Hogwarts!): For fans of a certain boy wizard, this is a must-see. The beautiful arcaded cloisters were used as a filming location in the Harry Potter films, serving as the snowy quadrangle at Hogwarts. It’s a wonderfully peaceful spot, especially on a sunny day.
The Central Tower Climb: If you’re feeling energetic, the climb to the top of the central tower is an absolute must. It’s 325 steps up a narrow spiral staircase, but the reward is the most breathtaking panoramic view of Durham and the surrounding countryside. Please note: The Central Tower is sometimes closed for maintenance, so it’s always best to check the cathedral’s website before your visit.
Open Treasure Museum: Don’t miss the award-winning museum, housed in the spectacular medieval Monks’ Dormitory and Great Kitchen. Here you can see some of the cathedral’s greatest treasures, including the original 7th-century wooden coffin of St. Cuthbert, Anglo-Saxon carvings, and priceless medieval manuscripts.
Hidden Stories and Fun Facts
Part of the joy of this place is discovering its little quirks and legends. Here are a few of my favourites:
The Bishop vs. The Pope: The Bishop’s Throne (Cathedra) is said to be the highest in all of Christendom. The story goes that Bishop Hatfield, in the 14th century, sent representatives to the Vatican to measure the Pope’s throne, just to make sure his would be an inch taller!
The Prisoners’ Clock: During the English Civil War, thousands of Scottish prisoners of war were held inside the cathedral. They burned much of the wooden furnishings to keep warm, but they famously left the medieval Prior’s Clock untouched. Legend says it’s because the clock is decorated with a thistle, the emblem of Scotland.
The Missing Statues: The magnificent Neville Screen behind the altar was once home to 107 alabaster statues. They vanished during the Reformation, and one story suggests the monks hid them so well to protect them from destruction that they have never been found.
Planning Your Visit: The Essentials
Opening Times: The cathedral is typically open Monday to Saturday from 9:30 am to 4:30 pm, and on Sundays from 12:00 pm to 4:00 pm. As it’s a working church, times can vary, so always check the official website before you go.
Entry Fee: There is no charge to enter and explore the cathedral itself, which is wonderful. However, they do encourage a donation of £5 per person if you can, which goes towards the enormous cost of maintaining this historic treasure. There are separate charges for guided tours, the tower climb, and the Open Treasure museum.
Getting There: The medieval streets are narrow and there is no public parking at the cathedral. I’d strongly recommend using the city’s excellent Park and Ride service or arriving by public transport.
Tours: To really get to grips with the cathedral’s 1,000-year history, I highly recommend taking one of the guided tours led by their expert volunteers.
Photography: You are welcome to take photos inside the cathedral for personal use. The view down the nave towards the Rose Window is a classic, and the cloisters are a fantastic spot for a selfie!
Facilities: There’s a lovely cafe, the Undercroft Cafe, and a great shop for gifts and souvenirs, both located in the medieval undercroft.
A visit to Durham Cathedral is an unforgettable experience. It’s a place of immense beauty, peace, and history that stays with you long after you’ve left. It is the absolute cornerstone of any trip here and a key part of what makes Durham so special.
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