Exploring The Real Sapa: Vietnam’s Popular Highland Town

Sapa is Vietnam’s most famous mountain town. Its streets are an endlessly fascinating snapshot of Vietnamese life at high altitude, but there’s much more to it than the town itself: the cultural immersion treasure trove of Muong Hoa Valley on one side and the rugged mountain passes of O Quy Ho on the other.

The area is also home to five of the country’s largest ethnic minority groups (H’mong, Red Dao, Tay, Giay, and Xa Pho), each of which have their own culture and traditions, as well as their own villages.

Sapa’s rugged terrain, combined with its melting pot culture and incredible landscapes, make it the most popular spot in Vietnam for intermediate-advanced trekking. It has the highest peaks in the country and some of the most beautiful valleys, so those looking for a more relaxed cool-weather escape with some great sightseeing won’t be disappointed either.

Layers of Sapa’s stunning landscapes (dvadrus/DepositPhotos)

I recently spent a week travelling through Sapa. I talked to a range of locals, both in and out of the tourism industry, to dig deeper, get insider tips, and learn more about the REAL Sapa.

And I’ve condensed what I learned into a practical travel guide you can use to make your experience in Sapa a positive one, from tips about how to get to Sapa and where to stay to leads on what to do in Sapa.

“Three types” of Sapa travel

When discussing Sapa’s tourism scene with my local friend, Ngọc, she told me that “Sapa caters to two different types of tourists: the kind who want luxury and relaxation, and the kind who want adventure.”

And she’s absolutely right: Sapa’s activities and accommodations can almost be separated into two different “categories” depending on the type of travel experience they provide. And, so, that’s precisely what I’ve done in this guide: divided all my recommendations into sections for “mainstream/relaxation-focused” and “rugged/adventurous”.

I’ve also included a third category of cultural immersion activities that are more “local” than the relaxation options but aren’t strenuous.

Where to stay in Sapa

Sapa has a few different “areas” to stay in, and each of them will provide a vastly different travel experience. Those three areas, along with a specific accommodation recommendation for each, are:

Recap of the best accommodation in Sapa:

• Sapa Relax Hotel & Spa (sapa town center) – a boutique hotel located in the heart of Sapa town, about a 12-minute walk from Sa Pa Lake
• Sapa Bamboo Eco (Muong Hoa Valley) – a relaxed bungalow-style homestay tucked into the Muong Hoa Valley rice fields (~15–20 min from Sapa town)
• Sapana Mountain Retreat (outside Sapa toward Ban Ho) – a hillside lodge just outside Sapa town with outstanding rice terraces views

1. Sapa town

The actual town of Sapa is maybe the most touristy place in Vietnam. This unfortunately means any authentic culture there is commodified and tainted, but it also means that the tourist infrastructure is highly developed, so those looking for a relaxing stay will be comfortable.

Cau Giay, the large street running through the tourist part of town, is perhaps the best example of this accessible but clearly tourist-facing feel – the cobblestone boulevard is very pretty, and it is lined with fusion restaurants and souvenir shops that you won’t find in the town outskirts. There are countless small streets off of Cau Giay that are narrower but serve the same purpose.

The parts of the town not covered in tourist trimmings are beautiful, though. Three of the most notable landmarks in town, all located in the city centre, are:

• Sapa Lake, one of the prettiest urban lakes I’ve ever seen. The park beside it is a great place to hang out during the day, and walking along the quieter side at night while the lights of the tourist district bounce off the water is mesmerizing.

• Sapa Square, a sunken stone plaza lined with white stone steps leading down to it. The plaza is huge (I played frisbee with some locals there) and reminded me of a European amphitheatre. Surrounding the plaza are streets with murals, a famous stone church, and the amazingly-designed Sun Plaza.

• Sapa Market, a large indoor market. It sells some tourist tchotchkes, but mostly cold-weather clothes and local goods. It also has some good food stalls (more on that in the “what to do” section. In the evening, it turns into an outdoor night market selling local street foods and clothes.

• The town is still tourism-focused outside the centre, but it’s less crowded and the streets are very narrow. Also, everything outside the centre is on a hill – a short walk in Sapa can feel like a training montage in a Rocky Balboa movie.

If the town center sounds like a good home base, I’d recommend beelining for Sapa Relax Hotel & Spa. For $35/night, the amount of luxury I experienced there was impressive, from delicious tea at reception to a spotless large room to friendly staff.

2. Muong Hoa valley villages

Muong Hoa is more like a wide canyon than a valley, because the way down is extremely steep and the valley is much longer than it is wide – only 1-4 km wide but 30 km long, with the unbelievably beautiful Muong River running down the middle.

Nestled into the flat land on either side of the river are several villages. They’re nowhere near as developed as Sapa, and they provide an infinitely more authentic cultural immersion experience. The four best villages to stay in Muong Hoa Valley, each settled by a different ethnic minority, are:

Lao Chai (H’mong People)

It’s the closest of these four to Sapa and the horrendously touristic Cat Cat Village (more on that later), so it’s a bit less authentic than the others.

It still has some amazing scenery, though, and there are plenty of local tour guides who will show you through the very authentic backroads of the town and even take you into local houses. It’s also a good home base for people who want to spend time in both Sapa Town and the villages in Muong Hoa.

Ta Van (Mainly Giay People)

The most developed of these four, with fully paved roads and even some small hotels and bars. It’s great for those who don’t like the overtourism of Sapa Town but still want to stay somewhere developed.

Hau Thao (H’mong)

The least developed of these four, with rough trails instead of roads, few shops, and a tighter-knit community vibe.

Ban Ho (Mostly Tay People)

The valley is wider at this point than any of the other three villages, and the jungle-like foliage and waterfalls make it the best of the four for nature-lovers.

All four of these villages have homestays. They’re also easy to go between, though, so I’d recommend staying in Lao Chai if you want to go the village accommodation route. Check out the Sapa Bamboo Eco there – it’s in a great location beside the river and the rooms are nice.

A garden-view bungalow at Sapa Bamboo Eco, calm, lush and nicely removed from town

3. Overlooking the valley (my personal favourite)

Some of the cafes and homestays located just outside Sapa are built to showcase the incredible panorama of the valley below, and they’re my favourite places in the area to spend time. They’re not too touristy, not too remote, and offer easy access to both Sapa Town and Muong Hoa Valley.

Lá Đỏ Homestay & Coffee – a cafe and guesthouse that is one of the most famous photo spots in Sapa

If you want to go with this hybrid option, I’d recommend Sapana Mountain Retreat for $40/night. I can’t decide which I liked more: the fact that the rooms open onto one of the most impressive views of terrace rice paddies I’ve ever seen OR the huge wooden bathtub in every room.

The homestay is also attached to a restaurant that serves great local food, a big plus since food options outside Sapa Town are scarce.

Morning views over Muong Hoa Valley at Sapana Mountain Retreat

How to get to Sapa

Almost everyone who visits Sapa will be coming from Hanoi. The three best ways to get to Sapa from there are:

Train + transfer (most comfortable)

As I’ve discussed, I love taking the train in Vietnam. And there’s a line directly from Hanoi to Lao Cai, a town about 1 hour from Sapa with a population of approximately 130,000. The train from Hanoi station (near the Old Quarter) is comfortable, clean, relatively quiet, and offers much nicer views than the bus. Book train tickets on 12Go. The train takes 8 hours and costs around $30/adult for a standard sleeper cabin.

You can transfer to a bus or car for the last hour up the mountains from Lao Cai to Sapa, which you can also book on 12Go. This hour is unfortunately quite steep and curvy, but there’s no way to avoid it if you’re going to Sapa.

Note: You can take the train to Lao Cai from other stops along Vietnam’s North-South Line, but you’ll need to transfer in Hanoi.

Bus (cheapest)

Vietnam’s cross-country bus system is amazing, too. It’s not quite as spacious as the train and definitely not as scenic (you’ll mostly just be on the highway), but the standard sleeper buses give you basically as much space and privacy as a capsule hotel.

Buses are also by far the cheapest option. A trip on a nice sleeper bus from Hanoi to Sapa on 12GO takes 6.5 hours and costs $17, with even less expensive options available. From Ninh Binh to Sapa, trips take 8.5 hours and cost $26.

Motorbike (most scenic)

If you are good on a motorbike and are travelling alone, I’d recommend this option.

The steep road from Lao Cai to Sapa (the last hour of the ride) has lots of twists and turns that call for pretty advanced motorbike skills, but it’s one of the more beautiful stretches of road in the country; the vistas of Muong Hoa Valley along the ride may be a highlight of the trip before you even reach Sapa.

What to do in Sapa

I’ll divide this section on my top recommended activities in Sapa into the three “categories” I laid out previously.

Mainstream/classic activities in Sapa

1. Stroll around the lake

As I mentioned, Sapa Lake is extremely pretty. There’s a sunken walkway that goes all the way around it, and it makes for a scenic, romantic stroll during the day or evening.

2. Shop at Sapa Market

I was pleasantly surprised by how authentic Sapa Market seemed for such a touristy town. The sellers don’t harangue foreigners for a sale like at Ben Thanh Market in HCMC, and the goods are reasonably priced. That being said, haggling is welcome – you can often get a seller down to 40-60% of the initial asking price (this possibility is built into the price, so don’t worry about underpaying them).

The night market in the parking lot outside Sapa Market is just as authentic and fun.

3. Explore Heaven Gate & Love Waterfall

Along the O Quy Ho Pass, just to the northeast of Sapa Town, a huge hole is carved into a mountain in the Hoang Lien Son range. Leading up to the hole is a wide, ornate stone stairway. Gazing at it from the roadside, it looks like an actual stairway to heaven. After ascending the steps and passing through the rock you’ll emerge onto a viewing platform that has one of the best vantages of rice paddies I saw in Sapa. 

Just a few minutes walk along a carefully landscaped path through lush greenery is Love Waterfall. The waterfall thunders down into a swimming hole spanned by a row of stepping stones. The pool itself is awesome, and the fertile jungle surrounding it adds to the “jungle oasis” feel. I heard time and time again that Love Waterfall is far cooler than Silver Waterfall, which is included on lots of tour itineraries.

Heaven Gate and Love Waterfall are located about 30 minutes from Sapa by road.

4. Take the Fansipan Cable Car

The soaring peak of Fansipan Mountain is the highest point in Vietnam. That fact and the fantastic cable car/funicular combo leading to the peak would make it cool in itself, but the picturesque 360° views of terraced rice paddies, villages, mountain roads, and Sapa itself make the vista from up top one of the best views in Vietnam. Also, there’s a temple complex near the summit.

The ride up Fansipan Mountain is a bit expensive at ≈$32/round trip and a few extra bucks for the funicular to the summit. Fair warning, though: I heard multiple times that the mountaintop is extremely disappointing if it’s foggy.

book your cable car ride here

Fansipan mountain peak at an altitude of 3143m

5. Join a street food tour

Since it’s a blend of lots of ethnic minorities, Sapa has some very distinctive street food. I went on a $28 Sapa street food tour.

Our first stop was Phở Cốn Sủi, a rice noodle shop with a two-story, dark wood interior that oozed mountain town atmosphere. The phở itself matched the cozy feel of the shop; the thick, herby broth topped with peanuts, boiled eggs, and herbs was hearty and stomach-warming.

Our next stop was a buffalo jerky stand at the bustling market. The jerky was great, but, for me, the sauce made from H’mong herbs and lime juice stole the show.

Then on to a plastic-stools style roadside vendor serving thằng cố, a thick stew with horse meat and organs. I’m not usually a big organ guy, so I almost passed on the dish. The inclusion of horse meat intrigued me, though, as it’s not a meat I’ve ever seen served in Vietnam, let alone Western countries.

The assurance that thằng cố is maybe the most famous Sapa-specific dish was appealing to me as well. It didn’t disappoint, either; the slightly sweet, gamey meat was preferable to beef for me, and the intensely herbal and pungent broth was the most memorable thing I ate in Sapa.

Next was a food-focused gift shop where we sampled bánh hạt dẻ, chestnut-filled tarts. The most interesting part of this stop was all the H’mong traditional herbal remedies lining the walls. 

The last stop was an open air shop off the market that sold bún chả Sapa, which is hearty, slightly sour, and totally different from Hanoi’s bún chả.

If you have a few minutes to stick around after the tour, stick around and try some of the pickled foods or homemade liquors from the shop. Trying local alcohol is one of the most fun ways to get in touch with local culture, and this place has a lot of choices, from corn alcohol to local rice wine.

6. Get coffee at a hilltop cafe

Several local cafes are built on the edge of the valley so you can take in a panoramic view while you sip a drink. White Cloud Coffee is a great one located right in town.

If you’re willing to drive out of town for a few minutes and follow a narrow road for 100 metres, though, Fanxi is the place to go. Not only is the view even better than the one from town, but the coffee there is incredible. I ordered the best egg coffee I’ve ever had there, which is saying something since it’s my favourite drink.

7. Zen out at a Red Dao Spa

The Red Dao ethnic minority in Sapa is famous for its relaxing spa treatments, especially its herbal baths. Head to Sapanapro in Ta Phin, a very upscale but still affordable option. They use herbs from local farms as part of the experience, which is equal parts cultural immersion and unadulterated relaxation.

It feels fabulous to get a bath after a long walk like the Ta Phin Valley Trek mentioned in the hiking table below, when your joints are tired. The bath house I went to had a beautiful light wood design and picture windows that let you look our onto the valley while taking a bath. Overall, the most “treat yourself” experience I had in Sapa.

Baths generally last 20 minutes and cost $5-10. The best way to book is in the village itself, or, if you’d rather plan ahead, book a Ta Phin Bath tour like this one.

8. Eat out

I honestly didn’t eat much good food in Sapa other than that on the food tour mentioned above, but easily the most delicious meal I had on my own was at SU Vegetarian Restaurant. The watermelon steak there was my highlight, original and surprisingly filling.

I did have trouble finding any food for normal Vietnamese prices in Sapa Town, though. After days of only finding meals for over 90k (almost $4), it was a relief to find H’mong Quan. The huge dish of rice and a choice of local meat dishes came with a side of stir fried morning glory. The food and the atmosphere are basic but serviceable and the place is a favorite with locals, probably because a gigantic meal is only 60k.

H’mong Quán, a well-known local restaurant in Sapa

Adventure activities in Sapa

1. Hike to off-the-grid villages

There are lots of tiny, remote ethnic minority villages in the hills around Sapa that can provide the deepest cultural immersion in the area.

If you’re willing to make the trek (which usually involves hilly terrain and is only accessible by motorbike or foot), you may just have the best experience of your trip. Some of the best tiny villages to visit if you’re up for an adventure are:

Village NameDistance from Sapa TownWhy It’s a Favourite

Sin Chai	5km/3mi west	Easy to reach (though not by car), just outside of Sapa’s urban fringe
Ma Tra	7km/4mi northwest	Closest village to Sapa that feels truly rural
Nam Cang	40km/25mi south	Extremely remote, this is as off-the-grid and authentic as it gets
Y Linh Ho	7km/4mi southwest	Incredible Hilltop Views

I’d recommend exploring these villages on your own, but know that it will require a lot of hiking since they’re usually spread out on steep hills.

My favourite walk during my time in Sapa led from Y Linh Ho Village down the valley to Lao Chai.

To get to the start point of this route in Y Linh Ho, go to the school in the village “centre.” I’d recommend taking a motorbike taxi or walking, though remember it’s a long, steep uphill. The hour-long descent passes by charming rural scenery like minority village huts, babbling mini-waterfalls, and troops of ducks or chickens foraging for dinner.

The road is peaceful (only three or four motorbikes passed during the trek), and it’s gravelly and bumpy enough to feel rugged while still being flat enough for almost anyone to hike as long as they have sneakers or boots. And the panoramic views of the valley splayed out beneath the trail were unforgettable.

2. Trek Fansipan Mountain

Taking the cable car up Fansipan is beautiful in one respect, but trekking up the mountain is a whole different level of natural majesty. The forest is thick and lush at some parts, and at others the trees open up to give you fantastic views of the rice terraces and the Muong River.

It’s an advanced trek – between 8 and 10 hours up steep mountain terrain, only part of which is on established paths. For those fit enough to tackle it, though, well worth the effort.

You can technically climb Fansipan without a guide using the 6km Fansipan Trail. I can’t impress enough how strenuous the trek is, though, so you may want to go with a tour like this Fansipan group trek that costs ≈$70.

See tour info on getyourguide

As you climb toward the summit of Fansipan, the air thickens and world around you begins to melt into fog

3. Paraglide over Muong Hoa Valley

No matter where you are, paragliding is an intense but powerfully beautiful activity. The Muong Hoa Valley is even more magical than most paragliding settings. Flying high over the green or golden rice terraces, wet fields of ducks and water buffalo, ramshackle houses lining dirt roads, and the snaking Muong river tying it all together is a memorable experience.

Paragliding tours on GetYourGuide are surprisingly affordable for such a spectacular experience – around $100.

4. Explore Hoang Lien Son National Park

Hoang Lien Son National Park is the wildest and most adventurous area around Sapa. It’s one of Vietnam’s best areas for serious trekking or casual hiking, with varying levels of routes through dense forest, bamboo groves, and high ridgelines rather than manicured rice terraces like most Sapa treks. Some of the most popular hikes in Hoang Lien Son are:

Hike NameDistanceTrail Head LocationDifficulty / 5

Ta Phin Valley Trek	9km/6mi	Ta Phin Village	2
Seo My Ty – Ta Trung Ho Loop	13km/7.7mi	Seo My Ty Hamlet	4
Vung Rong Waterfall Trail	9km/6mi	Lower Vung Rong Area near Sapa -Sin Chai Rd	1
Nam Kang Ho Tao Peak	23km/14mi	Nam Kang Ho Tao Village	5
Jungle Discovery Trek	11km/7mi	Park HQ Access Road near Sapa	3

Here’s a good Hoang Lien Son park & tribal village trek if you want something a bit more on-rails. Cost is $80.

Cultural immersion activities in Sapa

1. Stroll through Muong Hoa Valley

If you want to experience Sapa’s authentic culture, exploring Sapa Town itself won’t really cut it. Rather, a stroll through Muong Hoa Valley is where you’ll find immersion. The most accessible villages are Lao Chai, Ta Van, and the lowland parts of Y Linh Ho. I’d recommend taking a car or motorbike to one of the villages unless you’re staying in one. From there, do some exploring!

If you want a more structured guided tour, this “no-trek” tour I took goes through part of Lao Chai and Ta Van, and it includes the Fanxi viewpoint cafe mentioned above.

The tour is a much less strenuous alternative to Sapa’s more intense treks that still provides a good sight-seeing opportunity. It’s great for those who don’t love breaking a sweat and those who are saving their energy for a bigger trek later. It also goes to Fanxi hilltop cafe and a Red Dao foot bath spa in addition to the villages.

2. Take an ethnic minority crafts workshop

There are craft studios in Sapa or surrounding villages that offer workshops teaching visitors to make goods using local methods. Popular types of local crafts you can make include:

• Batik, a traditional method for dying clothes with traditional patterns. This Batik workshop from Sapa Weather is affordable, and Indigo Cat is a good workshop in Sapa Town. Cost is $19.
• Cooking local food. I’d recommend this cooking class with a local H’mong family, where you’ll also learn about some ways in which local food is actually harvested. I chose this one in particular because the food taught is specific to the Sapa region, not Vietnam in general. Cost is $39.
• This Hmong embroidery workshop from ETHOS, Spirit of the Community is a very high-quality class that teaches you how locals turn a normal piece of dyed fabric into traditional clothing. Cost is $35.

The classes are hands-on ways to get in touch with local culture, and they have the bonus of leaving you with a deeply personal souvenir to bring home. 

3. Soak in Ban Ho Hot Springs

The natural hot springs in the centre of Ban Ho are a bit far from Sapa town at around 1 hour, but the majority of the drive has panoramic views of the rice terraces. Since it’s so far, though, it’s also mostly off the tourist radar and so provides a much more authentic, peaceful experience than an herbal bath in Sapa.

The hot springs themselves are divided into three pools, each naturally heated to a different temperature. The water in all 3 is cloudy, but don’t worry – the cloudiness is from healthy minerals. The pools are set in an open-air courtyard with views of the surrounding hills all around you.

Admission fee is less than a dollar. Most of the staff speak basic English, but set up a translation app on your phone just in case. Note that the pools are generally closed during the rainy months of May to September.

4. Go on a motorbike journey

Walking around the area near Sapa is nice, but you can experience a lot more on a motorbike. Some of the best areas to ride around on a motorbike are:

• O Quy Ho, the highest pass in Vietnam.
• Muong Hoa Valley, the best ride for quintessentially Sapa scenery.
• The 7km loop starting at Ta Van and passing through Giang Ta Chai.

Rent a motorbike in Sapa and drive yourself if you’re comfortable, though know that you’ll need a license and at least intermediate motorbike skills – the winding and hilly roads aren’t for beginners. If you’re not going to drive, I’d recommend this half-day easy rider Sapa area tour for $50.

What NOT to do in Sapa

Many of the popular attractions in Sapa are tourist traps that pale in comparison to more authentic surroundings. The most notable of these activities, all of which I’d recommend skipping, are:

• Cat Cat Village. This place isn’t a real village in any sense. Rather, it’s a cesspool where you can rent “traditional local outfits” (which are actually Chinese Hmong designs, not even the local Hmong) for photo shoots, walk around a manmade valley, and be charged too much for Chinese-made souvenirs and low-quality food.

• Moana is a cafe on the edge of the valley with some manmade structures tourists can pose on. It’s way overpriced and totally unnecessary when you consider the stunning natural surroundings.
• Silver Waterfall, an over-touristed and underwhelming experience compared to the nearby Love Waterfall.

When to visit Sapa

Sapa’s microclimate is a bit of a roller coaster and doesn’t conform to the usual Vietnam weather patterns I lay out in my post about when to visit Vietnam. In short, the seasons of Sapa are:

• January & February: Extremely cold and foggy, with highs of 10°C (50°F) and dropping into the negatives. Not recommended for outdoor activities. Note that not all hotels in Sapa have proper heating facilities (though the ones I mention in this post do), so you might get cold in the evenings.
• March & April: One of the best times to visit Sapa. The temperature is moderate, the hills are a deep green from all the rain, and local farmers start preparing the rice terraces for planting. The rice-planting festival in early March is a fantastic cultural immersion experience.
• May & June: More humid, but rarely rains and temperature doesn’t usually go above 20°C (68°F). This is Sapa’s planting season, and watching farmers plant rice (or even participating) is a cool experience.
• July & August: The most popular months to visit Sapa. It can get a bit hot (up to 30°C/86°F) and has frequent light rains, but the rice terraces turn golden. It’s an absolutely iconic sight.
• September & October: Typhoon season. Best avoid visiting Sapa in these months.
• November & December: The weather starts to cool down, especially in December, but rain is rare and the rolling fog over the valleys is majestic. Also, the Christmas season in Sapa is magical. This is the best time of year for a serene, relaxing mountain getaway.

A final note that I realize Sapa may not be everyone’s cup of tea due to how overtouristed it can get, especially in the high season of July-August. I also published an entire Sapa Alternatives Guide for those who fall in this camp.