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There is a raw, elemental beauty to the Northumberland coast that captures your heart and refuses to let go. It’s in the salt-tanged air, the brooding silhouette of Bamburgh Castle standing guard over the dunes, and the endless horizon of the North Sea.
But to truly understand the soul of this place, you have to leave the mainland behind. You have to take to the water.
On my recent trip to Seahouses, I did exactly that. I wanted to experience the “Galapagos of the North”—the Farne Islands. To get there, I joined Serenity Farne Island Boat Tours for their Grey Seals & Seabird Cruise.
If you are looking for an experience that engages the senses, inspires a love for nature, and offers a window into the history of this rugged coastline, this is the trip for you.
Finding Serenity in Seahouses
Seahouses is the bustling gateway to the islands. The harbour is a working one, alive with the sound of gulls and the clinking of masts. Amidst the various wooden kiosks lining the pier, the Serenity stand is easy to spot.
I chose Serenity for a specific reason: their boats. I sailed on Serenity II, which is a purpose-built catamaran. For anyone who (like me) might be a little wary of the North Sea’s famous “swell,” a catamaran is a game-changer.
The twin-hull design offers incredible stability, meaning less rocking and rolling, and more time enjoying the view without gripping the rail for dear life.
Plus, for those travelling with family or anyone with mobility issues, it’s good to know they offer wheelchair access (tide dependent) and have onboard toilets—a luxury not all small boat operators can boast.
The Journey Begins
As we pulled away from the harbour wall, the view looking back was spectacular. To the south, the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle; to the north, the imposing Bamburgh Castle.
Our skipper, Andrew, navigated us expertly out of the harbour, his commentary immediately setting the scene with a mix of local wit and deep knowledge.
The Grey Seals & Seabird Cruise is a 1.5-hour tour that stays on the water. We didn’t land on the islands this time, but honestly, the view from the sea offers a perspective you just can’t get from the shore.
The boat features a 360-degree viewing deck, so whether you’re on the port or starboard side, you don’t miss a thing.
A City of Seabirds
As we approached the islands, the first thing that hit me was the sound. It’s a chaotic, vibrant wall of noise.
The Farne Islands are home to approximately 23 species of seabirds, including Guillemots, Razorbills, Kittiwakes, and Shags.
Depending on when you visit, the “stars” of the show change. In spring and early summer (May to July), the comical Puffins are out in force, whirring through the air with beaks full of sand eels.
Even outside of Puffin season, the cliffs are alive. The sheer geology of the place—the Great Whin Sill—creates these dramatic hexagonal basalt columns that look like a giant’s causeway rising from the waves.
The skipper brought Serenity II remarkably close to the cliff faces. We hovered near the famous “Pinnacles” on Staple Island, monolithic rock stacks absolutely carpeted with birds.
Seeing nature this busy, this loud, and this close is humbling. It’s a sensory overload in the best possible way.
The Grey Seals: Puppies of the Sea
While the birds rule the cliffs, the rocks below belong to the Grey Seals. The Farne Islands host one of the largest colonies of Atlantic Grey Seals in England, with numbers estimated at around 3,000 to 4,000.
This was the highlight for me. As we idled through the channels, curious seals popped their heads out of the water to inspect us—a behaviour known as “bottling”.
Their large, soulful eyes seem to look right at you. On the rocks, great heaps of them were hauled out, resting in “banana” poses to keep their extremities out of the cold water.
If you visit in the autumn (late October to December), you’re in for a special treat: it’s pupping season. Thousands of fluffy white pups are born on the islands, dotting the landscape like balls of cotton wool.
Legends in Stone: Grace Darling and St Cuthbert
It’s not just wildlife out here; it’s history. As we circled the islands, we passed the Longstone Lighthouse, standing stark red and white against the grey sky.
The skipper recounted the tale of Grace Darling, the lighthouse keeper’s daughter who, in 1838, spotted the wreck of the SS Forfarshire from her window.
Amidst a ferocious storm, she and her father rowed a coble boat out to rescue survivors. Seeing the jagged rocks of the Harcars from the deck of a modern, stable boat made her bravery feel all the more real—and terrifying.
On our return leg, we skirted Inner Farne. Here, you can see the tiny St Cuthbert’s Chapel and the Pele Tower. St Cuthbert lived here as a hermit in the 7th century, seeking solitude and offering protection to the Eider ducks (still known locally as Cuddy’s Ducks).
It’s fascinating to think of monks living such an isolated existence on these wind-swept rocks.
Practical Guide for Your Trip
Inspired to go? Here are a few tips to make your Serenity trip as smooth as possible.
- Book in Advance: These trips are popular! Especially if you want a specific time slot.
- Parking: This is the big one. Seahouses gets busy.
- Harbour Car Park (NE68 7RN): Right on the pier. Costs about £9.50 for the day. It fills up very early.
- Village Car Park (NE68 7RQ): A 5-10 minute walk down to the harbour. A good backup plan.
- Station Yard (NE68 7SW): Another option if the centre is gridlocked.
- Tip: Bring coins! Signal for parking apps can be patchy on the coast.
- Arrival: Serenity asks you to arrive 30 minutes before departure to collect your tickets from the kiosk.
- Clothing: Dress warmer than you think you need to. Even on a sunny day, the wind chill on the North Sea is real. Layers and a windproof jacket are your best friends.
- Food/Drink: There are no snacks sold on board, so bring a bottle of water. Treat yourself to fish and chips in the village afterwards!
Final Thoughts
The Grey Seals & Seabird Cruise with Serenity was the perfect micro-adventure. It was educational without being dry, exciting without being scary, and deeply connected to the natural world.
As we headed back into Seahouses, with the taste of salt on my lips and a camera full of photos, I felt that familiar Baldhiker satisfaction. We travel to find these moments—where the world feels big, wild, and full of life.
The Farne Islands deliver that in spades.
Have you been to the Farnes? Let us know your favourite memories in the comments below!
English (US) · 